Comfort food and memory
To this day, I always feel special
when I tell someone that I am a
Greek Jew. It was, to my mind,
unique to my extended family of
aunts, uncles, cousins and second,
third and “once removed”
cousins. I would meet other Jews,
but never Greek ones. (Meeting
Leah in my forties at Gerrard
Berman Day School was like
meeting a long lost cousin!)
Once a year, we would all go
for a “Greek” weekend to the Saltz
Hotel in Mount Freedom. The
food was typical “Catskills” cuisine,
but there would be a Greek
band, and lots of Greek dancing
with my father always leading. All eyes were on him and
I was so proud that he was my father. If someone didn’t
know who I was, I always just said “Jack Cohen’s daughter,”
and it somehow put me in an elite group.
We did not belong to a synagogue, and we were not
observant but for a Passover seder every year with 15 of my
cousins. Being Romaniote, Greek, my parents never felt at
home in an Ashkenazi synagogue. In some ways, the Jews
didn’t think we were Jewish, and the Greeks didn’t think we
were Greek.
My grandmother Mollie lived across the street with my
aunt, and everyone cooked. I remember tomatoes stuffed
with meat and rice, zucchini with tons of oil cooked in
enamel pots, fasoulakia (string beans), and fasoulia (white
beans), with chunks of meat. Bizelia (peas) with chicken in
a tomato sauce was a favorite. My mother made bourekia
with phyllo dough filled with spinach or cheese (always
eggs and farmer cheese). We would make hundreds for
parties. Farmer cheese and eggs would be mixed with flour
and fried in oil to make pancakes called singatu. And again
farmer cheese, eggs, and eggplant for patrigian. My mother
also made tomato soup with orzo called bigeles, which to
this day is the definition of comfort food to me.
Two desserts stand out for me. Crunchy cookies called
clouthia that we made with oil, not butter (to keep them
pareve) and a sweet custard called galaptopta. My father’s
mother made galaptopta every Friday. He and his brothers
would go out after dinner and when they would come
home, late, each would dip a spoon into it the pot. By
morning nothing was left!
My most prized family recipe is for caltzonia, little halfmoon
shaped pastries, made with a very simple dough
and filled with either farmer cheese filling, or spinach or
meat filling. My grandmother Mollie would make them
occasionally, four for us and four for my aunt’s family –
even though we had five people and they had four — I feel
the unfairness til this day! They were coated with oil, and
always a little overdone so the corners (my favorite part!)
were extremely crunchy. I called them “cheese buns,” and
enjoyed them for breakfast. My grandmother was “off the
boat” Greek even though she had lived in the U.S. since
she was sixteen. She was the epitome of unconditional
love, sweet and adorable, and represented, along with my
other grandparents, our “special” background — we were
Greek Jews! It made us different and exotic and unique.
My grandmother died thirteen years ago at 97 years old,
blessed with relatively good health and a sharp mind until
the end.
Neither my mother nor my aunt ever made caltzonia.
After I moved out of the house, I went years without tasting
them until I started questioning my mother’s scattered
cousins for the recipe. Her cousin Julia, who at this time
was in her eighties, sent me the recipe written out on index
cards and complete with hand drawn diagrams. The first
time I made them, I cried. In each bite was my childhood,
my special Greek Jewish heritage, my grandmother’s hug.